Lead Belay Videos

REI Lead Belay Video

REI Lead Vall Video

American Alpine Club Lead Belay


Beginner Climbing Mistakes

Four things beginners should avoid – good video

How to be a better rock climber – Hans Florine

Holds 101 – Climbing for beginners

Foot Placement 101 – Climbing for beginners

Body Position 101 – Climbing for beginners

How to dyno 101 – Climbing for beginners

Hans Florine Ted Talk

Chimneys Toprope Anchors

Here are some pictures of the toprope area called the Chimneys about 3/4 mile outside the Table Rock parking lot at Linville Gorge.

Unknown Route (5.6 – 5.8).  The anchor is 21 ft of 8mm cord using a BHK as the master point.   It was about 40 feet high.  This was a good route with redundant bolts.


One of the old gigantic bolts at the chimneys.  A guide told me the Army installed these bolts for training exercises a long time ago.  There are a few of them, but most are not close enough to use redundantly.  For redundancy, you’d have to use one bolt and one giant rock (or something).

These pictures show one of those routes that use a big bolt and a rock for redundant anchors.  Someone else set this up, and the rock its tied to might not be a good choice.  The last picture is the same route from the bottom.


This picture shows 3 routes.  In the front is a bad route with redundant bolts and a sling for an anchor.  In the middle is a good route with the 21 ft 8mm BHK.  Past that is a person standing too close to the edge near that route that used the rock and the bolt (above).   One of these is called The Humbler, but I don’t know which one.




Pilot Mountain – The Beach

Scarface (5.6)

This picture shows a top rope anchor for Scarface (5.6) next to Pool Hall Gully.  A 21 foot 8mm static cord with figure 8 follow throughs at the bolts and a BHK (Big Honkin Knot) for the master point.  A Petzl rope protector is protecting the anchor from the edges.


This picture shows top rope bolts for 3 routes at the Beach.

  • Body Surfin’ (5.7+)
  • The Wave (5.11a)
  • Hawaii-Five-O (5.11b)DCIM100GOPRO

This picture shows the rappel rings about 1 foot away from the Body Surfin’ top rope anchor.



Pilot Mountain – Pool Hall Gully



This pictures shows a complicated natural anchor for 7-ball.  This is an implementation of the Backside System anchor described on page 176 of the AMGA Single Pitch Manual with a high master point and a low master point.  It would be possible to set up a much simpler anchor here.






Using a personal tether and 11mm static rope to get to the bolts at 8-ball.